How jewelry fashion is born and made-At the end of the 1920s, Coco Chanel began to sew her sporty and, at the same time, elegant and chic models that stayed in fashion for a long time.


The main events for wealthy people are fashion shows, which determine the main fashion trends of the upcoming seasons.
There are a lot of definitions of fashion, but they can all be reduced to two main ones:
1. Fashion has the most significant distribution at a specific time, enjoys the most tremendous popularity and recognition of the majority.
2. Fashion is short-term domination in a specific social environment of particular tastes, manifested in the external forms of everyday life.
Fashion for jewelry is primarily related to the technique for clothes, hairstyles, hats. The primary influence on jewelers' creativity is, of course, style for clothes: the purpose of clothing, the length of the dress, sleeves, the depth of the neckline, cut, material. But the inverse relationship is also genuine: as fashion designers say, no outfit can be considered complete without certain jewelry. This truth was the basis of all jewelry art of the past. Do not forget about it now, especially since fashion for clothes is developing rapidly.
The development of jewelry design has depended on the style of clothing that prevailed at one time or another. So, in the 1840s, earrings were practically not worn since the ears were covered entirely with hair. And in the 1860s and 1870s, earrings became simply huge, almost lay on the shoulders. And were very popular as they perfectly suited the hairstyles of the time when the hair was combed from the forehead to the back of the head and the deep cleavage of ball gowns.
Brooches became the most fashionable jewelry at the end of the 19th century. They were small in size and thin in design, as they were worn on the collar or on lace and tulle scarves. In 1910, the corsage ceased to be part of the women's toilet, such jewelry began to be converted into pendants worn on thin chains. Then, when decolletage came into fashion, typical corsage jewelry appeared in the first decade of the 20th century - large brooches that were sewn directly to the dress.
A typical necklace of the 1920s was a satire (a long string of beads or a chain, closed or with open ends), decorated with a brush or pendant. It was perfect for low-waisted dresses. Long neck ornaments swung together with the hostess in the rhythms of incendiary dances of the 1920s.
At the end of the 1920s, Coco Chanel began to sew her sporty and, at the same time, elegant and chic models that stayed in fashion for a long time. Her classic two-piece suit provided a mandatory accessory in the form of long strings of pearls or massive gold chains.
The fashion for jewelry has also changed. The first post-war years were a time of reaction to the hardships of the war. In 1945, the new French haute couture housed Givenchy and Balenciaga presented dresses with lush short skirts and decolletage. At the end of the 1940s, evening dresses were decorated with necklaces in the form of bibs. In the 1950s, necklaces were worn during the day and evening. Brooches decorated with luxurious exotic flowers, birds, animals, and leaves.
Under the influence of space flights and science fiction in jewelry fashion in the 1960s. Many new textures such as "moon surface" or "seabed" appeared, which decorated abstract products with uncut crystals of minerals.
The fashion for short necklaces abruptly passed when ethnic trends forced women to wear long skirts, fringed blouses, and shawls with fringes. Due to the popularity of Indian motifs in the 1970s, beads made of colored precious stones or corals, which lay in several rows around the neck, with a central element of gold in the form of a stylized flower or animal mask, returned to fashion.
At the end of the 20th century, emancipation led to the fact that there were no inaccessible spheres of activity for women. Educated and purposeful women wanted to wear things that emphasized their new role in society. The romantic style with an ethnic touch was replaced by clothes corresponding to the lifestyle of a business lady. At the end of the 20th century, the main favorite was a strict suit worn from morning to evening, worn to meetings and opera. Giorgio Armani perfectly guessed this need and offered women clothes borrowed from the men's wardrobe. The most fashionable colors in clothes are beige, gray, blue and black. Accordingly, such clothes required bright details. So in the jewelry art, the shade of fuchsia (tourmalines), orange (citrine), turquoise (turquoise), and apple green (peridot) turned out to be in demand. Jewelry has become more extensive, catchy, but at the same time more comfortable to wear.
The long beads of the 1970s were replaced by short, smooth necklaces that perfectly matched the fitted jackets. The most popular chain was the "collar," which was worn at the base of the neck.
Often the fashion for jewelry arises under the influence of geographical discoveries. This was the case, for example, after several scientific expeditions to India or Africa. The art of the peoples of Africa served as a source of inspiration for designers of the 19th century. For example, African masks have become a new element in jewelry design. Wide bracelets, carved from ivory, wood, or made of metal, decorated ladies' wrists in many ways. In large quantities, the same bracelets were copied in costume jewelry.
Laces with tassels have migrated from the Indian traditional costume to European jewelry, turning into necklaces and sautoirs. Carved rubies, sapphires, and emeralds from India, once in Europe, turned into flowers, leaves, fruits and berries on jewelry "tutti-frutti" or "fruit salad" by Cartier.
France's occupation of Algeria (1830-1847) and the massive importation of caftans and other exotic goods of Moorish origin into Europe led to the emergence of a new trend in fashion. European jewelers have never copied products made in the Middle East. But knots, ribbons, curly laces, festoons and tassels of North African costumes, reproduced in gold, turned into brooches, earrings the central links of bracelets.
After the French expedition to China, the capture of Beijing, and the Summer Palace in 1960, many imperial jades were taken to France, and utterly unusual jewelry was created from them.
Because since the 1850s, Western countries began to trade with Japan. Hitherto unknown samples of Japanese art started to arrive in Europe, which significantly influenced the ornament of jewelry. Fashion is almost always changing in developing more advanced technologies to manufacture and process jewelry materials.
So, at the beginning of the 20th century, it was impossible to achieve lightness and subtlety of products if jewelers had not started using platinum. Before that, the relative softness of silver forced jewelers to increase the frame's weight, duplicating it with gold to make the product more robust. As a result, the jewelry became heavy, massive, uncomfortable to wear, and tarnished over time. The strength and hardness of platinum allowed the craftsmen to reduce the mass of metal in the frame to a minimum and turn it into fantastic products with lace patterns. This is how the elegant garland style emerged in jewelry art.
The first performance of "Scheherazade" became a sensation for the public thanks to the luxurious bright costumes and decorations. The costumes invented by Bakst, resembling the colorful, rich outfits of the inhabitants of the harem of the Turkish sultan. Made such a strong impression on Parisians that the couturiers immediately turned to oriental motifs. However, this style was quickly forgotten after the Diaghilev Russian Ballet performed in Paris and London in 1910. Bright precious stones in the most incredible combinations and various motifs in the form of peacock feathers and lotus flowers have returned to the jewelry art.
It happens that scientific discoveries inspire designers to develop unusual collections. In November 1922, Tutankhamun's tomb was discovered in Egypt's Valley of the Kings. As a result, interest in the Egyptian style revived in the 1930s. Typical jewelry motifs were scarabs, snakes, pyramids, palm trees, hieroglyphs, and sphinxes (later with the body of a lion and the head of a pharaoh, fox, hawk, or hawk, or falcon). Archaeological excavations in Central and South America have attracted attention to the Maya Indians and pre-Columbian civilization. Geometric patterns characteristic of South American art appeared in jewelry. Jewelry fashion almost always arises when new deposits of stones are discovered. Thus, the discovery of the Argyle deposit in Western Australia in 1979 led to the saturation of the market with pink diamonds, small but intensely colored. Accordingly, the pink color became fashionable, and designers immediately began to develop an entirely new jewelry style. Today pink and purple diamonds are included in the top list of the most expensive stones.
Sometimes, famous designers who create unusual jewelry collections are sponsored by interested owners of large groups of various jewelry materials and raw materials. This is also how new trends in jewelry fashion arise. An example is an interest in large jewelry houses in black and brown diamonds to date.